Post: #1

I know a lot of guys on here are muscular and have a big chest/ shoulder to waist ratio but still dress well, and was looking for help:
I am having difficulty finding shirts that fit me well and don't billow around the waist. I have a 17' neck, 45' chest and 33' waist, and even 'slim-fit' shirts fit me badly. Short of getting a tailor and going custom/ made to measure (which I can't afford), are there any companies which offer shirts for a more athletic build?

Post: #2

You don't need to get custom made, just get a shirt that fits well on your shoulders and chest and take it to the tailor to taper the waist. It's $15, $20, I'm sure you can afford that.

On the other hand I find that Macy's brand, Bar III extra slim, even though not perfect, fits well off the rack.

Post: #3

Just find one designer shirt that fits you perfectly, measure every dimension and then get moderntailor to recreate the cut. Until the 15th, you can get a blue or black shirt made for $20 and a white one for $25.

You can return the designer shirt once you're done. Or bring a tape measure with you into the change room and do it there, saves you from having to make a return trip.

Post: #4

there is a shirt company called mizzen and main, which is supposed to address this outright. Have this problem too, similar measurements. I find buying slim fit or extra slim fit, a few sizes larger, tends to get a good fit off the rack. Or go bespoke.

Post: #5

In Australia, I just buy European fit shirts from the quality men's stores. They are V-shaped. Costs about $70+ each though

Getting the waist tapered in (haven't done it for shirts but mostly pants) is also about $15~20 here which is affordable enough.

Post: #6

(03-09-2014 11:53 AM)Cyr Wrote:  I know a lot of guys on here are muscular and have a big chest/ shoulder to waist ratio but still dress well, and was looking for help:
I am having difficulty finding shirts that fit me well and don't billow around the waist. I have a 17' neck, 45' chest and 33' waist, and even 'slim-fit' shirts fit me badly. Short of getting a tailor and going custom/ made to measure (which I can't afford), are there any companies which offer shirts for a more athletic build?

In the UK, check out TM Lewin or Hawes and Curtis, they both do decently fitted, reasonable quality shirts for sensible prices.

Find a store and try on a few sizes and cuts to get the right fit, then get them altered if you're not happy.

The TM Lewin "Fully Fitted" range (no darts) and the H&C "slim fit" (back darts) are good starting points for guys with muscles.


Edit: Avoid Charles Tyrwhitt for definite, even their slimmest fit is cut for a businessman with a beer belly.

"I'd hate myself if I had that kind of attitude, if I were that weak." - Arnold

Post: #7

This is a business opportunity. Athletic cut suits off the rack suits already exist.

Post: #8

Thanks for the replies. Ive tried getting the shirts taken in and it has ended up looking shit. I'll try another tailor and also check out the company vaun posted. Their stuff looks good.

Post: #9

(03-10-2014 02:57 PM)Cyr Wrote:  Thanks for the replies. Ive tried getting the shirts taken in and it has ended up looking shit. I'll try another tailor and also check out the company vaun posted. Their stuff looks good.

I would definitely yelp it. Not all tailors know what they are doing. If you need a recommendation for your area, maybe go to Styleforum.net. Maybe this search will help https://www.google.com/search?q=stylefor...of++shirts

Post: #10

Another option for shirts that "almost" fit round the middle is to practice the military tuck, it's not too obvious and removes an inch or two from the waistline, as well as keeping the shirt tucked in securely.

"I'd hate myself if I had that kind of attitude, if I were that weak." - Arnold

Post: #11

I'm having another problem. My shirt fits perfectly everywhere but as my chest is getting bigger I can't button the 3rd button from the top! It's bulging and stretching my shirt like crazy. But the rest of the shirt looks fine. Sleeve also fine.

If I go up a size it would be ugly.

Can placing/resewing the button slightly to the side help?

Post: #12

Moving a button won't work as it will be asymmetrical. Your only option would be to let out some material at the side seams. I've never done this or heard of it being done, but I don't see why it wouldn't be possible. The loss of fabric would probably mean that there wouldn't be enough allowance to re-sew with a flat felled seam, but it should be possible to unpick the entire seam, re-cut it, and then finish it with a more basic french seam or something which requires a smaller seam allowance.

Post: #13

I wear Express 1MX extra slim cut. Beautiful fit, but mediocre material. It's pretty mainstream, so I notice a lot of other dudes walking around with the same shirt as me.

Post: #14

Have you tried custom fitted shirts?

Modern Tailor and Blank Label are two brands that I use for dress shirts. Once you get the fit down, you can save your template and order all kinds of shirts. Plus, not only are the dimensions custom but you can choose the buttons, collars, cuffs, etc.

Post: #15

(03-10-2014 06:58 AM)Benoit Wrote:  Edit: Avoid Charles Tyrwhitt for definite, even their slimmest fit is cut for a businessman with a beer belly.

I wouldn't go that far. For me having to regularly wear button-down shirts and not wanting to pay a dry cleaner or spend the time ironing, the non-iron shirts are well worth the trouble. I've long since given up on Brooks Brothers, but I do like CT shirts for the reasonably stylish patterns. I order the extra-slim-fit shirts and if you wait long enough you can get them for ~$30 apiece on super-sale which leaves a ton of overhead if you do want to get them tailored.

I've started to notice that the extra-slim-fit is getting a bit narrow in the shoulders as I've been making some progress at the gym, so I'm debating going to the slim fit and finally taking them to a tailor. The extra-slim-fit has been 'close enough' - requires some tucking at the waist, but nothing horrible - but the shoulder seam is now noticeably on my trap so I'm starting to consider going to the less slim cut and then having it tapered to fit.

Realistically, if you work out enough to have a reasonably muscular build, at a certain point off-the-rack isn't going to be sufficient. Find a decent shirt and expect you'll probably have to take it to a tailor to get it cut right.

Post: #16

I think the fact that no off the rack shirt fits a muscular body like we r encountering here say a lot about how fucked up mens sizing has become. Clothes are being made for fugly beer belly guys or tall lanky walking stick manboy.

And they complain about unrealistic body image ...

Post: #17

I usually wear 504 straight fit Levi's. Fit perfect.
Also noticed that tops fit me perfectly since getting fit. I usually shop Calvin klein, express fitted shirts or Armani exchange.
V-necks that are 80% cotton 20% spandex are awesome.
I'm sure there's a lot more cheaper clothing out there I haven't discovered that fits good.

Post: #18

(03-09-2014 07:44 PM)StrikeBack Wrote:  In Australia, I just buy European fit shirts from the quality men's stores. They are V-shaped. Costs about $70+ each though

Getting the waist tapered in (haven't done it for shirts but mostly pants) is also about $15~20 here which is affordable enough.

Hey Strikebck!

I`m in Melbourne. Care to share what stores you would recommend for these European shirts?

Thanks

Post: #19

So I am going to lose a little weight for a wedding. I don't have to wear a suit much lately so my older shirts won't look right at the collar, too much space.

I don't think I'll be able to get a MTM shirt turned around fast enough after I hit my weight goal.

Probably best to get an off the rack and then have it tailored, right? I can't think of any other options.

I have read altering the collar is a bad idea, so can't use my old shirts.

Post: #20

I think dress shirts are much like suits in terms of selection. You just have to make sure the collar and shoulders and Sleeve length is a good fit. Midsection can usually be tailored. And if you are pressed for time and a tailoring or MTM will push being the needed deadline, you can always just do a military tuck to give you that fitted look.

Post: #21

Military tuck is a great trick but once I start moving, it seems to fall apart. I think you're right just get the shoulders, length and collar right. Off the rack here I come... But I sure love my MTM with the mother of pearl buttons, etc. Ack, off the rack probably has a pocket!

Post: #22

If you live in Canada or America. Try Winners. Make sure to find out your measurements though. It goes by neck, sleeve, and chest. Having a proper neck cut is important so you can breathe and button all the way up when wearing a tie. I've gotten Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors dress shirts from Winners for 15-25 CDN bucks a piece.

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/bb-size-gu...lt,pg.html

Post: #23

Yeah I love dress shirt too, esp. as a white collar guy in Paris it pays to be well dressed, but I’ve found that in general its just not worth it unless you have a tailored shirt. Off the rack dress shirts are not made at all to fit a V-shape, considering your typical guy who wears dress shirt (cubicle worker and young skinny artsy type) I tried even Express extra-slim dress shirt and though the shoulder and chest fit nicely, there’s enough blousing near the abs to fit a Jezebel feminist in there…

Military tuck only helps if you are sitting on your desk all day doing nothing... soon as you move your ass you have to retuck it. Or if you are wearing a suit over it.

For a casual dress up look, its just better to get a nice smooth stretch cotton Vneck with beautiful texture, and top it up with a blazer.

Post: #24

I put on one of my mtm shirts last night. The collar seemed ok. But it had 2 fingers of space rather than 1. I am not sure how much more my neck will shrink during the next few weeks. But I went ahead and bought a bunch of Charles Tyrwhitt shirts since they are on sale right now. Put has a great return policy. I got a mix of different collar and sleeve sizes and fits (slim, classic, etc). Since it takes up to 10 business days with free shipping to receive. Cool thing is the shirts are made without pockets.

Post: #25

Gentlemen,
I'm launching into a redo of my wardrobe. Given that I'm a 50-year-old guy, relatively recently back in good shape, and I'm a serious sweater. With a trip to SEA coming up soon, I was thinking of having some shirts made in HK, but I'm intrigued by Mizzen+Main and their "performance dress shirts" (mentioned above). Has anyone actually bought/seen one???