Post: #1

I am having my first bespoke suit next week and I would like to see if you guys think that I am missing anything or have any tips.

After researching tailors I want something like this:

9-10oz wool
Navy Blue with a subtle plaid design
Single breasted peak lapel
Do not know if 1 button or 2 button
High armholes
Pants with no belt loops
Natural shoulder
Slim fit
Working buttons (Do not know if I prefer kissing, cascade or separate buttons)
Ticket pocket, yay or nay?

Anything else?

Post: #2

Is this for business or evening wear?
Why do your pants have no belt loops? Don't you wear a belt.
If you have broad shoulders or a decent build, I would go one button. Nice silhouette.

Post: #3

I like ticket pockets. Extra pair of pants. Maybe a little extra fabric for down the road if repairs need to be made. I've torn nice pants and shit, would have been nice to have extra material for reweaving.

Pants are flat front and no cuffs?

Try styleforum.net for the most detailed info on men's clothing on the internet.

Post: #4

I'm not an expert, but I'd suggest:

* Go with braces/suspender buttons if you don't get belt loops
* Consider getting a three-piece suit since the vest will give you more combo options
* Be aware that if you get a suit with a pattern, even if it's light, it may make it a little more challenging to mix/match patterns in your shirt, tie, and pocket square. However, it doesn't necessarily mean that a no-pattern suit is better, just different. When I got my first custom suit, I got plain navy because I like wearing shirts and pocket squares with strong patterns, and it doesn't take as much attention to detail to get them to go with a no-pattern suit.
* Peak lapels can be a little more ostentacious and formal than notched lapels. So, depending on what you'll be wearing the suit for you should take that into consideration.
* A one button jacket is more fashion-forward than a two button. So again, make sure the suit fits the situations you'll be wearing it for.
* I agree that a ticket pocket is a nice touch
* I don't think the button design matters that much, except I recommend getting buttons with a brown/black pattern so they make it easier to wear either brown or black shoes with the suit
* I personally prefer two side vents over one back vent, because it's easier to put one hand in your pocket while you're standing

Post: #5

With the vest just keep in mind that the jacket will be designed with the vest being worn, so if you ever go without a vest it is going to be a little less fit. I have a 3 piece that has this issue.

Post: #6

Each tailor has a house cut (sometimes two or three) which he knows very well. If you specify something too far removed from that cut, you'll risk getting something not very well balanced and not as you expected. So basically, try to find a tailor who has something close to your desired cut in his window rather than choosing a tailor and asking him to try an experiment on your suit.

Fabric choices and small details like ticket pockets are not a problem, but I would recommend not trying to dictate the following:
-High armholes
-Natural shoulder
-Slim fit


Peak lapels are traditionally quite formal; likewise pants with no belt loops and single-button jackets. Is that the look you are going for?
Plaid, blue colour and ticket pockets are less formal.

Also, in my opinion bespoke suits should be double vented. Single venting is cheap and belongs on mass-produced suits.

Post: #7

(06-11-2015 06:51 PM)Carlos100 Wrote:  I'm not an expert, but I'd suggest:
...
* I personally prefer two side vents over one back vent, because it's easier to put one hand in your pocket while you're standing

This. Especially if you ever plan on wearing the suit while going up stairs or even a step. Stairs can break the projection of power your suit provides when the back vent opens to reveal the above the ass crack portion of your dress shirt.

Post: #8

(06-11-2015 08:14 PM)BBinger Wrote:  

(06-11-2015 06:51 PM)Carlos100 Wrote:  I'm not an expert, but I'd suggest:
...
* I personally prefer two side vents over one back vent, because it's easier to put one hand in your pocket while you're standing

This. Especially if you ever plan on wearing the suit while going up stairs or even a step. Stairs can break the projection of power your suit provides when the back vent opens to reveal the above the ass crack portion of your dress shirt.

If I remember right, the original purpose of the back vent was to allow the coat to drape correctly while the man is riding a horse. So, if you'll be riding a horse, you need a back vent. Otherwise, double side vents probably work better.

Post: #9

A single vent tends to indicate a cheaper jacket and should only be considered if you have a bubble butt.
If you are deciding between a one and two button jacket coupled with a peak lapel, the suit is likely not an office staple.
The subtle plaid design should take in to account your complexion, contrast and hair color, yet be veritable enough to match your shirts and ties' color.
See this dude:

Ticket pockets are more stylish, but if you are not tall it breaks the verticalility. Slanted front pockets (not pictured) increase the length a bit and having one button makes the suit more fashion forward and could also enhance the appearance of length of the jacket.
Also, I think a suit should cover your ass unlike the above example.

A bespoke and a MTM are different. The former takes longer to finish and tends to cost 2-5 times as much.
I'd get Dressing the Man from your local library to see the examples in Chapter two.

Post: #10

(06-12-2015 08:17 AM)Carlos100 Wrote:  If I remember right, the original purpose of the back vent was to allow the coat to drape correctly while the man is riding a horse. So, if you'll be riding a horse, you need a back vent. Otherwise, double side vents probably work better.

You're probably right. Today its purpose is to save fabric... Double venting requires more fabric and wider cuts.

Post: #11

(06-12-2015 09:27 AM)BDawg Wrote:  A single vent tends to indicate a cheaper jacket and should only be considered if you have a bubble butt.
If you are deciding between a one and two button jacket coupled with a peak lapel, the suit is likely not an office staple.
The subtle plaid design should take in to account your complexion, contrast and hair color, yet be veritable enough to match your shirts and ties' color.
See this dude:

Ticket pockets are more stylish, but if you are not tall it breaks the verticalility. Slanted front pockets (not pictured) increase the length a bit and having one button makes the suit more fashion forward and could also enhance the appearance of length of the jacket.
Also, I think a suit should cover your ass unlike the above example.

A bespoke and a MTM are different. The former takes longer to finish and tends to cost 2-5 times as much.
I'd get Dressing the Man from your local library to see the examples in Chapter two.

Wow, I really dig that style, the squares in the fabric that I am aiming are bigger and subtle. Double vents are a must, forgot to mention that I had already decided about that.

What do you guys think about pick stitching, contrasting stitching in the buttons and the colour of the lining (half or full?)?

I work in a non-conservative office so no problem unless I am meeting a conservative client, this suit is aimed for some meetings and parties. I also have other off the rack conservative suits for interviews and that kind of stuff.

I am not tall and I have a good built.

Post: #12

(06-12-2015 10:39 AM)Gunner Wrote:  Wow, I really dig that style, the squares in the fabric that I am aiming are bigger and subtle. Double vents are a must, forgot to mention that I had already decided about that.

What do you guys think about pick stitching, contrasting stitching in the buttons and the colour of the lining (half or full?)?

I work in a non-conservative office so no problem unless I am meeting a conservative client, this suit is aimed for some meetings and parties. I also have other off the rack conservative suits for interviews and that kind of stuff.

I am not tall and I have a good built.

Your suit should look like this, only a bit darker if your face contrasts with your hair.

The above dude (on the right) has peak lapels with some pinstripes. If you aren't tall, keep the pocket square a subtle color, avoid ticket pockets and consider hacking pockets. Make sure the pattern in the jacket is more rectangular and narrower or go with the pinstripes. It seems like overkill here, but a bespoke suit is an expense.





Buzz @ 6:39 shows the whole ticket pocket thing.

Post: #13

Be prepared to answer the tailor's question "Which way do you dress?"

What he means is, on which side does your dick hang, left or right?

He has to allow for that with more material on that side.

Being ready for this will save you and him some embarrassment.

Post: #14

For the guys who have had bespoke suits made, do you go for anything special with the lining? Some of these look pretty slick:

http://www.businesspunks.com/gb/15-art-l...ry=15&n=45

Post: #15

(06-12-2015 12:44 PM)Brisey Wrote:  For the guys who have had bespoke suits made, do you go for anything special with the lining? Some of these look pretty slick:

http://www.businesspunks.com/gb/15-art-l...ry=15&n=45

I like those. I haven't had anything more radical than bright solid colors. Typically the craftsman does not have anything more exotic than floral patterns. Perhaps it isn't even made (in silk or bemberg).

Anyone who is experienced at sewing can replace the lining, there is little need for expert craftsmen. It is about a $50 job stateside. If you want to go down that route find a shop which prints custom fabrics (for example http://www.fabricondemand.com/) and then take it to a tailor.

EDIT: Gunner what made you choose bespoke over MTM?

Post: #16

Agree with the double venting. Also, I personally would go with 2 buttons (though the bottom is obviously not buttoned). I think that style will have more longevity than the 1 button style.