Post: #26

I just read the following in Dressing the Man by Alan Flusser and thought it would be appropriate to post here:

Quote:Suspenders are the recommended antidote for the gap that typically develops between suit trouser and vest. They raise the trouser' waistband so it remains covered by the vest, while bringing the trousers' pleats and vest's points into better harmony with each other. Vests and belts should choose different dance partners. A strip of leather encircling the stomach adds more bulk to an already layered waistline, and belted trousers also tend to slide down the hip frequently reveaing the undesirable presence of a belt buckle.

Since I'm a big waistcoat and sweater vest wearer, if this is true it looks like I should transition from belts to suspenders.

Post: #27

While we're talking about waistcoats, I recenty had my tailor make a double-breasted waist coat like this



At first I was just planning to casually pair it with a white tailored dresshirt, dark raw denim and oxfords. But now Im considering having a suit built around it but in a darker grey.

Post: #28

Always get the three piece just for the best alone. Wearing a vest with tie in bars and coffee shop or without the tie with the top two button open and necklace showing at clubs/coffee shops always leave a good impression. I've gotten my fair share of looks.

Post: #29

If you get a 3-piece suit, you have the option of wearing it as a 2-piece suit for different situations.

Post: #30

3-piece suits always seem like someone's trying to hard, in my opinion. Especially if they're under 50.

In most places in my home country though anyone wearing a suit in a club is looked upon as a new money try hard type. The kind of guy who drives a leased BMW but lives in a studio apartment. Think Jersey Shore people I guess, in American culture. If you're in a bar on a Saturday night you're there to relax - suits are what people with good jobs wear for 60 hours a week in work, why would you wear one at the weekend? Let the women put the effort into dressing up, men can just wear a fitted tshirt and jeans and look good.

Post: #31

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced tailor that's located in the UK?
I've got a picture in my head of my perfect suit. Custom white 3-piece, single breasted with notched lapels and a fine chalk pinstripe.

Post: #32

(05-01-2015 05:47 AM)zatara Wrote:  3-piece suits always seem like someone's trying to hard, in my opinion. Especially if they're under 50.

In most places in my home country though anyone wearing a suit in a club is looked upon as a new money try hard type. The kind of guy who drives a leased BMW but lives in a studio apartment. Think Jersey Shore people I guess, in American culture. If you're in a bar on a Saturday night you're there to relax - suits are what people with good jobs wear for 60 hours a week in work, why would you wear one at the weekend? Let the women put the effort into dressing up, men can just wear a fitted tshirt and jeans and look good.

You approach this with the wrong mindset.

I enjoy wearing a suit, I don't do it for others, I don't do it for dressing up. I do it, because in my book, a suit is what a man should wear.

My grandfather wore a suit on most occasions and so did my father. Not because they wear the most style-conscious, but because in their book, a suit was what a man should wear.

Of course, with this opinion, I am part of a minority nowadays.

In the office world, you can spot the guys who wear a suit because they have to. They don't enjoy it. The suit is produced by cheap material, the armholes too big, the ties doesn't match the shirt, there is no pocket square, there is a neck gap. They wear it, because they have to, they don't embrace it.

You can see similar guys in clubs or bars. They read somewhere that they can get girls when they wear a suit. So they go the same route as the office guy. Get the first best suit without understanding the basics of men style. They don't care about the suit, they just wear it, because they "have to".

At the other hand, you have guys who embrace the suit. They understand men style, the tradition of men clothing and wear it with confidence. They appreciate the craftsmanship of a well-made suit and know how to match suit - shirt - tie - pocket square. But the important point is, after they put together their outfit, they forget it.

They wear it like other guys wear a t-shirt, jeans and sneakers.

All that makes the difference, whether you are a try hard, or a well dressed man.

Regarding the topic of 2 piece or 3 piece: If you can get the 3 piece for the same price as the 2 piece, I would say go for it. In a more formal setting, think a friends wedding, you can wear it as a 3 piece.

When you are a younger guy and just get started in your career, I wouldn't wear it to the office. You want to look sharp, so go the MTM route, but you don't want that your outfit distracts from you. At the other hand, when you are well established at the company, you can wear it as 3-piece as well.

But please note, the waistcoat is not an excuse for taking off the jacket. The jacket is an essential part of every suit and should be worn at all times.

Ray

Post: #33

I do agree with that partially - proper suits are an extremely worthwhile investment. Every man should own a few tailored suits, otherwise they're still just a boy.

The prevailing culture in a lot of European countries though does tend to be 'if you've got a good job you wear nice suits to work, not on a Saturday night to a bar. If you've got a working class job wearing a suit is a special occasion for you, so you wear a suit at weekends to try to impress people'. Think lawyer vs mechanic. I think a lot of Americans fail to grasp that when they 'suit up' over here.

Post: #34

(05-02-2015 06:51 AM)zatara Wrote:  I do agree with that partially - proper suits are an extremely worthwhile investment. Every man should own a few tailored suits, otherwise they're still just a boy.

The prevailing culture in a lot of European countries though does tend to be 'if you've got a good job you wear nice suits to work, not on a Saturday night to a bar. If you've got a working class job wearing a suit is a special occasion for you, so you wear a suit at weekends to try to impress people'. Think lawyer vs mechanic. I think a lot of Americans fail to grasp that when they 'suit up' over here.

THIS.
Also you can tell they dress up like this just for going out. You wouldn't meet them shopping/in the grocery store like this. For females dressing up is natural, for men it is not congruent. At least that is the way that I see it

Post: #35

All I know for sure, or care about, is that when I'm well dressed at a bar or nightclub, wearing a sportcoat or suit, I get more looks from women, they are more open to my approaches and they approach me far more often.

It works; if somebody in the place wants to think I'm a "tryhard" because I'm better dressed than them that's not my concern.

Post: #36

Suit's a little bit much for bars and clubs. I've had better results with sportcoats.

Also I second not wearing a 3-piece suit. I've never seen anyone in a 3 piece at a professional setting, ranging from local events to NYC conferences with some household name business leaders in attendance.

Post: #37

Which suit do you think presents a sharper look or frames the face better?

Post: #38

(05-02-2015 06:15 PM)Carlos100 Wrote:  Which suit do you think presents a sharper look or frames the face better?

Don Draper honestly but it's Don Draper so I have my biases. Also I disagree with coat and vest matching unless it's black for certain occasions. In terms of in general use the three piece is only better for certain big events or private parties. It's too much to wear a three piece out to a club and it would be a very dependent bar.

Post: #39

I'm in zhuhai china, got a hotel in the city for the night. Got some light thin khakis on due I weather, navy with light blue accent polo untucked with Steve Madden dress sneakers.
Thought I was looking decently sharp for the night. Chinese guys comes out with two piece black suit, black shoes and a red bow tie.

Made me look like I'm going out for a round of golf.

This really stuck it home for me. Overdressed for bar/club or not that guy looks sharp and is getting attention. Def gonna put some input in this thread when I get back and hit the tailor. Not having that happen again lol.

Post: #40

I agree that a three-piece is over-dressing in certain situations, but in the right one, like where everyone else is in a suit, it could be a way of separating yourself from the rest. For example, in job interviews, weddings, etc.

I recommend having one of each.