I am going to shotgun this post, so be prepared for stream of consciousness and it will be longer.
I have been sailing down the Caribbean Islands again and normally as I get down to Barbados and Trinidad I make a decision whether to sail west along the South American Coastline toward Panama, as there are hundreds of islands (some not any chart) or continue south along the Brazilian coastline or east to the Mediterranean. So I was chilling in port and I was writing to one of my Venezuelan LTRs and she wanted to connect. I thought great, I have not seen her for a while and I have been sharing some information about the country with others (you guys) so this would be an opportunity to get current.
I was only going to stay for four nights, two with her and two with a long-time friend. I ended up staying for nine nights because I was having so much fun…and this is in Caracas and I am not the young party animal that some of you guys probably are. I have not stayed more than 3 or 4 days in Caracas in over 10-15 years.
I flew into Caracas internationally and took a cab to my friend´s house. Before I got into the cab, I walked down to that national side outside. It was safe to walk and now they have an indoor connection as well. If you take the indoor connection you will have fewer opportunities to exchange money. There are a few other airlines that I can add to the list and they are Aerolineas Estelar, Avianca, Rutaca. I talked shop with a few of the Venezuelan Airline Captains and although there are numerous airlines, the available seat-miles are down 52%. In general that means about 50% of the planes are not flying due to maintenance (the government does not have the dollars to exchange to the airlines so they can do higher levels of maintenance (particularly C checks). Without going off into a lot of aviation speak, most of the maintenance for Venezuelan trunk aircraft are done in foreign countries. As a practical note for those who have not been to Venezuela before; it is normal to buy one way tickets on one or multiple airlines.
For example most cities are connected by Caracas as a central hub so you may need to fly into Caracas for one leg and then out of Caracas for your second leg (even if it is a different airline) as a direct route between the cities you want to travel is non-existent or the flight is full. A normal one way ticket between any two cities is around 5,000 BsF (yes $5 dollars one way), if you land and then go onto another city on the same airline, it will be a different airplane and another 5,000 Bolivars. Here is a specific example, Conviasa has one direct flight between Margarita Island and Barquisimeto, but with Laser you need to fly Margarita - Caracas – Barquisimeto (on 2 flights). Or Aeropostal will fly Margarita Island - Valencia but Ascerca will fly Margarita - Caracas – Valencia (2 flights). There is a lot of mixing in matching.
Returning to the arrival; I took a normal SUV taxi (non-yellow license plates) to the east end (Las Mercedes is the sector and Baruta is the municipality) of Caracas near the financial district (El Rosal is the sector in the Chacao municipalty) which is a little farther north. There is both a financial and a business district (Altimara, Los Palos Grandes sectors in Chacoa municipality in Caracas (the financial district is newer and 95% is banking)). The Taxi was 4,000 BsF. I was chatting with the taxi driver and he gave me some overview. A taxi to the west of Caracas was about 3,000-3,500, to the west, 3,500-4,000 to the center, 4,000-4,500 to the east and 5,000-6,000 farther east. These prices are 30-40 higher than in other parts of the country. So you will save money on these already cheap prices if you go to other cities. Also taxis charge about 20% more at night (hazard pay). The issue with increased taxi prices is one of tires and batteries as there are shortages and the government does not have the money to import them.
I had forgotten how pleasantly cool it is in the mornings and evenings with ocean wind continuously clashing against the mountains. It was great to see my friend again we picked up right where we left off. We hung out, went to the gym (this guy is jacked and he is in his late 40´s) and the number of beautiful women there was incredible, I was not expecting that. He told me that because of general (in) security, many of the young women are doing their activities and that is a main avenue of socialization. They go from the house, to work (or school), to activities, back to the house. I will mention other activities where I met a lot of beautiful women, but there were more beauties per square meter at the gym on this trip. I met his young 20 something girlfriend and we went out (I will provide a longer list of places at the end). Due to his position he often has 1-2 body guards but they were not around when we went out. I asked him why and he told me that the Las Mercedes area (good for night game) was much safer relative than the central or west parts of the city, sometime he would have one of them waiting outside in a car, in case. I spent most of my evenings in the Las Mercedes (and El Rosal). Having said that, my most fruitful time was in the far west side with my surfer friends, but your risk will be significantly higher; hearing gunshots is normal on the weekends on the far west side. In a strict value equation, with quality, time, cost, safety, Las Mercedes is where I recommend to others on their first trip.
While staying with my friend, I went to the major pool where the best competitors (collegiate and international) train. I do this everywhere I go in the world as I was an international level swimmer and I basically have a credit card in many pools around the world and I end up training with their teams. I am spending 4-6 hours per day with 20-25 female swimmers between the ages of 18-25. Of the other 20-25 males swimmers only 5-10% have any semblance of game. I got to know them, accepted in their circle and invited to socialize and party with them. The point to notice is the pattern that I replicate. I have portable skills (swimming and surfing in this case) that allow me to extend into social networks most places I go. I do these activities because they are my passion not to network; it is fortunately that it is a natural congruency. I ended up partying with the swimmers as well after my LTR departed.
When my LTR flew in we stayed in the financial district and I did not feel on edge at any time while I was there. I was pleasantly surprised; perhaps it is because there is a lot of hope and optimism now with the changes in the congress. The hotels are nice, but in general 5 stars means 4 stars or in some cases 3 stars. I would use minus one star for whatever they tell you. They probably have not been officially rated in many years. I was in a supposed 5 star in a very nice suite (I usually prefer apartments, but this was more spur of the moment trip). It was not 5 stars and the suite although nice, 2 levels with a large terrace (solarium and Jacuzzi), was in need of some maintenance. The service was fine, but not something at 5 stars would provide (there was never a concierge at the concierge table among other things).
In terms of price, whenever you travel to major cities around the world, the financial districts are generally more expensive. That is true in Caracas, but the prices were cheap. I paid 55,000 BsF per night in one hotel and 80,000 in another (staying in the nicest suites available). For those that have been to London, Tokyo, Frankfurt, Moscow, New York, Zurich, Hong Kong this is so ridiculously cheap that it stretches the mind. Welcome to the upside of monetary inflation when you are using a different currency. We took the subway and the buses as I wanted to adventure and see for myself. We did not have any problems and I enjoyed myself going local. This was only during daylight hours. There are many newer buses, but the metro is simply older. Of course there is greater risk than in a taxi, but I would consider them acceptable if you wanted to save money (20 BsF for busses). If you are unsure, take a taxi, but remember to ask the price before you get in.
As a first day event, you may want to consider a large outdoor venue that begins slightly west of the financial district and continues on for 2 km as a good place to watch people in Caracas, stroll around the shops and to practice your day game (and Spanish), especially if you want to warm up for the evening. It is called Boulevard Chacaito, which continues into Sabana Granda, and finishes with Plaza Venezuela. All three are connected as you walk and they are only technically demarcated by their respective subway stations. Along this large outdoor venue there are entrances to indoor mini-malls that are better for day gaming as the people generally feel more secure in doors. There used to be more street vendors, but the government has cracked down on them. I personally like interacting with the street vendors as it reminds me of Mexico in the 1970´s. Another place is locally called Plaza Altamira but officially known as Plaza Francia. It is the location of the obelisk landmark that was present by France to Venezuela.
The caliber of women along these venues was generally between 5-8 with an occasional 9. During the weekdays in the morning and afternoon there are more 5-6´s as a percentage and they are harder to engage. It seemed that between 3-6 PM there were more 7-8´s and women were more open to approach. The weekends (afternoon seem to be better as they have done more of their necessary errands in the morning) were the best in terms of having more attractive women and women more open to approach. I saw almost no foreigners other than two Chinese tourists and a few others on the airplane when I arrived. I know foreigners are in the city (embassies, etc.), but I never came across another Caucasian during my 10 days.
When you get to Caracas or your city, pick up a newspaper. If you ask, what is a newspaper, then I am a fossil. Throughout the country I recommend El Universal newspaper as it is published in most cities the electronic link is:
http://www.eluniversal.com/english/
They are opposition (to the current government) oriented, but I find them to be more objective. The more government oriented is Ultimas Noticias in Caracas. You will find a number of cheap things in their classified section.
Caracas is technically the Districto Capital which is composed of 5 municipalities or Manieros in Spanish). Libertador, the largest and most government oriented, Baruta, Chacao, El Hatillo (almost exclusively residential for commuters), Sucre (which has the largest barrio in all of Venezuela at the far-east corner with Petare sector being the poorest).
Here are a few apartment listing to give you a frame of reference. But this was only from one day (a Tuesday). Weekend papers have the most information. In Baruta municpality, sector unknown: 3 BR, 2 BA, unfurnished for 1,350,000 BsF per month. In Chacoa municipality, Altimara sector: 2 BR, 2 BA 130 square meters (sqm) furnished 1,000,000 BsF; 3BR, 2BR 139 sqm, furnished 1,500,000 BsF; 1BR, 1BA 75 sqm furnished 600,000 Bsf, Campo Alegre 2 BR, 2BA access to pool, gym, golf guest parking 2,700,000 BsF; El Rosal sector 2BR, 2BA, 155 sqm furnished 2,000,000 BsF.
For the budget conscious. Libertador municipality, San Martin sector (lower middle class): 2 BR, 1BA 14,000 BsF; 2BR, 1 BA 12,000 BsF; Sucre municipality, California Norte sector (middle class), 2BR 14,000 BsF.
The food was good, but you need to keep a few things in mind. I would not eat from the street vendors (even cakes). They are not always the cleanest and things that are fried (empanadas, etc.) are often cooked in old oil as there are shortages. Your body will need time to adapt to the local bacteria (at least 30 days). Only bottle water should be drunk or if in someone´s house, they should have a multiple tiered filtration system, preferable with a UV light tier. Eat in hotels, restaurants or in homes. Panaderies (breads, pastries) are generally good, but there is a smaller risk if it is not more upscale (like Gourmet Market in El Rosal, one of my favorites). A normal dinner meal (an appetizer, main course, dessert, drink will be about 5,000 Bsf per person in a 2 star spot, 5,000-10,000 BsF per person in a 2-3 star locale, 10,000-15,000 in a 3-4 star place, 15,000 – 20,000 per person in a 4-5 star establishment. I had a nice meal in a 4-5 star establishment that included; salad, appetizer, a large portion of Lomito (11oz Filet Mignon) medallions, desert, glass of wine and offered coffee for about 18,000 BsF. Fish will generally be the most expensive item as it is not regulated. You can find a simple spaghetti and meat sauce for 1800-2000 BsF at 2 star spots, 2000-3000 BsF at 2-3 star locals, 3000-3500 BsF at 3-4 stars places and 3,500-4500 BsF at 4-5 stars establishments. Breakfast at a restaurants will range from 2,000-5,000 BsF per person and you can do it on the cheap at a good panaderia for between 500-1500 BsF depending how much you want to eat. Many places have executive menus for lunch where you get soup, a drink and a selection from 2 or 3 main courses for 2,500-4,000 BsF. You can do it on the cheap with soup for 1,000 BsF. Note, the Venezuelans general eat their big meal of the day over lunch and have a siesta afterward. Many businesses are closed between noon and 2 PM. Dinner is more sandwich and/or soup oriented. Ham and cheese is huge in Venezuela (breakfast, lunch or dinner). These prices are for Caracas and smaller cities will generally only be slightly less as most food prices are regulated.
After talking with a lot of normal working class people, they can live on 150,000 BsF per month in Caracas, other cities will be cheaper (I estimate 25-35%). The standard may not be what you expect, but it can be done. Also keep in mind that the minimum salary (which is normal) is a little under 10,000 BsF with food supplement of a little over 6000 BsF (I expect this salary to be raised again in mid-March and most probably again on May 1, and September 1. Most people must supplement further and that is why your biggest issue as a tourist will be petty crime. The biggest issues after petty theft are bacterial diarrhea, hepatitis A, and dengue fever. In all of my years of experience in country, I have only experienced minor petty theft on 2 occasions in a hotel environment.
Nightlife. I went out one (fun) night with my friend (just the guys), one (relaxing) night with him and his girlfriend. Two (great) nights with my LTR only, one (crazy) night with the swimmers and two (wild) nights with the surfers. I will begin with the surfers. I have a few surfer friends as I have done a lot of surfing in Venezuela and in Caracas we surf in La Guaira, technically to the west of Caracas. It is generally poorer and the income comes from the (shipping) port and the airport. These guys often drive taxis during the night or do something so they can surf during the day. They are generally school of hard knocks, very practical and have a live and let live attitude. They are a lot of fun. I was the only gringo surfing and there are seldom foreign surfers there, so I needed to watch myself. I had zero problems (probably because of my friends) and added some adventures to my book. I was at a beach party one night and house party another night that created memories that will light my fires when I am (really) old.
In the Caracas, I recommend doing a fair amount of your night venues in Las Mercedes. There are more 10´s in other spots, but there are numerous 7-10´s in this area and it is safer.
1) Rosalinda club, this is a hot spot with numerous 7-9´s, lots of dancing. Las Mercedes
2) Marbella Discotheque – 5-8´s with some 9´s. Las Mercedes
3) Hollic, dancing with a younger crowd 18-20, a lot of 6-8´s. Las Mercedes
4) Desigual Club - Dj environment 6-8´s with some 9´s. Las Mercedes border.
5) San Ignacio Mall has several night clubs locate there with higher end service. 6-9´s. Chacao
Most dance clubs are Tuesday or Wednesday to Saturday that open at 9 or 10 PM and close between 3 and 6 AM.
The following are more of the non-disco environment, but drinks, food, and relaxation and music (perhaps some dancing):
6) Juan Sebastian Bar in the financial district, good jazz or other bands depending on the night. Great place to begin the evening to warm up or bounce to near the end of the evening. 7pm-1am on weekdays, 7pm-3am on weekends. Also a good Italian restaurant next door. El Rosal
7) Altimira Suites, the bar is 360 degree and is a roof top local with a nice view. It is not your typically big city roof top party rave, but more casual and a good place to bounce and game, often with live music on the weekends. It is open until midnight on weekdays and 2 am on weekends. Los Palos Grandes
8), Entre Hojas Lounge/Bar, Renaissance Caracas La Castellana Hotel. This was a good place to drink, talk, relax and meet up to begin the night. Sometimes there is music.
9) Terrazas Steak House –higher end locale with eating, drinking that holds about 500 people with live music. Las Mercedes
For more drinking and pick-up
10) La Quinta Bar – cheap drinks, live music. Las Mercedes
11) Theatro bar- various types of crowds depending on the music, they party 7 days a week, some nights are comedy. Las Mercedes
From a 2012 post by WestCoast
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I would add that the Whiskey Bar was a great place, but it is no longer operating under that name or management. El Mani is still a fun place and I would recommend it.
You can probably Google some of these to get more information. Also be advised that getting a taxi after midnight can be a challenge and after 3 am is difficult. You should have the numbers of at least 2 taxi services or drivers before you go out. Talk to the people at your hotel for references. Call the taxis ahead of time and use them to get to where you are going and then have them pick you up. If you tip them well (50%) at your initial drop off, they will probably come get you at 4 or 5 in the morning if they know you are going to tip them well.
There was no sunscreen to be found in the city and I asked a number of people and even got a number for the Coppertone distributor in Caracas. Remember that you will be around 10 degrees north latitude and the sun is intense, so bring what you need.
Almost 50% of the population is under 25 years of age. Out of a country of some 31-32 million people, somewhere between 7-8 million (the census is not that accurate) people live in the (greater) City of Caracas while about 4 million live in the DC (Districto Capital) area.